2024 Textured Sampler CAL Part 6 – Final Part!

Materials

  • 900 grams of size 4 Worsted Weight yarn. This can be all one color, or as many colors as you like. You will need 100g for the 1st section, 150g each for sections 2-5, and 200g for the final section. I do recommend a fiber blend that is machine washable as this project is a bit larger, and to use solid colors as much as possible so the textures stand out
  • A crochet hook that matches your yarn and creates the density of fabric you like. I am using 5.5mm in my demonstration

Important Note!!!

This piece is easily adjustable! To make a smaller size, you can use a thinner weight of yarn, such as a DK weight, do fewer rounds in each section, or skip a section (or five) entirely. To make a larger size, you can use a larger wight yarn or do more rounds in each section. Just know that if you do alter the size – which is highly encouraged – it may take a different amount of yarn than what is noted above. Optional instructions will be included for sizing the pattern. As written, the pattern will fit an XL much more loosely than the above image.

Links to videos showing instructions for each section will be included in the pattern once available on YouTube!

This pattern is worked in the round, and there is no gauge measurement

If you run low on yarn or want a smaller piece, any DC rounds can be substituted for HDCs

Key:

All stitches use American terms

  • Ch – chain
  • SS – slip stitch
  • Sk – skip
  • SC – single crochet
  • HDC – half double crochet
  • DC – double crochet
  • BPDC – back post double crochet
  • BPHDC – back post half double crochet can be substituted for a BPDC if you are playing yarn chicken
  • Puff stitch – (Yarn over and pick up a loop) 3x, making sure to pull the loops up to DC height. Yarn over one more time and pull through all 7 loops on the hook. Ch1
  • FPPuff – Do a puff stitch, but around the stitch below from the front (watch the Section 2 video)
  • FPTC2B – front post treble crochet around the stitch 2 rows below (usually into a DC)
  • Popcorn – DC5 in the same stitch. Without losing your loop, take out your hook from your working loop and insert it into the top of the first DC, hook the working loop, and pull it through the first DC. This stitch may or may not be followed by a chain; the pattern will tell you!
  • Small Popcorn – Same as a regular Popcorn stitch, but DC4 instead of DC5
  • Herringbone Stitch – Yarn over like when you start a DC, and pull up a loop, but pull the loop through the yarn over as well. Then, Yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops on the hook (Watch the Section 5 video)
  • SC3tog – Single Crochet 3 stitches together by pulling up one loop in the three indicated stitches, then yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on the hook.
  • HDC (or SC) corner – this is a way to end a round in a corner. After the last stitch, instead of chaining 2 (or 1) and then slip stitching, you will simply do a HDC (or SC) into the top of the starting stitch of the round. You will find yourself in the perfect center of a chain space, and your first stitch(es) will be into the space you just created
  • Standing DC – Pull out your working loop until your hook is just higher than the height you want your DC to be and use your finger to hold the loop in place on your hook. Twist your hook under your loop forward and counterclockwise so it looks like you have a DC yarn over on your hook. Then insert your hook and pull up a loop like you normally would, then yarn over and pull through one loop and under your twist. Then yarn over again and pull through the last two loops. If you do not like this, you can always chain 3 instead.
  • Standing Herringbone – Just like a Standing DC, but with the Herringbone stitch

Section 6:

YouTube Demonstration: https://youtu.be/yYNtSxMfJmM

Instructions:

  1. Attach color 6 in any corner or continue with your previous color choice, Ch1, then do a standing DC and another DC in the same corner. Do a BPDC in every stitch, and in every corner do (DC2, Ch2, DC2), except for the last corner where you will do a DC2 and an HDC corner to close
  2. Ch1, SC in corner space, SC in every stitch around with (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner, except the last one which has a SC corner to close
  3. Standing DC and DC in corner space, (DC, [FPTC2B] across, ending with a DC, [DC2, Ch2, DC2] in same corner space) 3x, [FPTC2B, DC] across, ending with a FPTC2B, DC2, HDC corner to close
  4. Alternate rounds 2 and 3 until the piece measures as wide as you like, ending after completing round 3. If you are making the shrug, make sure that one side can reach from one elbow to the other, unless you want a short-sleeved shrug.
  5. Fasten off and weave in ends

Sewing Up:

Sewing up is optional; this piece works well as a blanket, too!

  • Fold the piece in half with corners from the same sides touching each other.
  • Using mattress stitch, sew from the touching corners toward the fold. You can sew up as much as you want, but if you want super wide arm holes you only need to sew up 4 inches on each side, and for tighter arm holes sew up until 9 inches from the fold are left unsewn. Try on the piece before fastening off sewing yarn so you can adjust as necessary

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